May Your Wines
Fall Bright

This is our free "E-Book" to help our amateur winemakers!

TABLE OF 
CONTENTS

Title Page
Home on Keuka Lake
Catalog
Index-Sitemap
Welcome Location
About the Authors

Basic Winemaking
Getting Started

AddingSugarChart

Adding
Sugar Math
Airlocks
Juice to Wine
Grapes to Wine
BATF

Bottle Fillers -Wands

Bottling

Bungs

Cleaning

Containers

Corks

Corkers

Fining and Clearing

Hydrometer Test

Hydrometer +5 to Ė5

Malolactic Culture

pH

Siphon

Spigot

Yeast: 
Lalvin

Red Star

Starter

Recommendations

Steve Shanker's Winemaking Site

ACID REDUCTION 
and ADDITION

Acid Testing TA
Acidex

Calcium Carbonate

Cold Stabilizing

Potassium Bicarbonate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Hydroxide
Tartaric Acid 

Water and Blending

CONVERSIONS
Metric Equil
.

FILTRATION
Buon Vino Mini Jet

Instructions-Mini

Cleaning-Mini
Bypass pumping

Buon Vino SuperJet

Instructions-Super

Mark III

Vinamat-type 

OAK
Barrel Treatment

Oak Chips
and Oak Mor

PROBLEMS
Fining
Hydrogen Sulfide:
Copper Sulfate
Bocksin
Reduless

Stuck Fermentation    
Vinegar

SPECIALTY WINES
Blending

Bottling Sweet
 
Fruit Wines
Late Harvest Vignoles
and Riesling

Sherry
Sparkling Wine

TEST
Acid Testing

Clinitest

Clinitest-Poison

NaOH Chart
Testing  NaOH

Residual Sugar

S02 Sulfite Test
Titrets

Vinometer Alcohol

Vines, Nurseries, 
Vineyard Supplies
 
Partial list for sure!

BREWING
Basic Brewing

Beginner Mashing

HOP TOXICITY
Hop Toxicity Medical

Index-Sitemap

Online shopping at  

www.fallbright.com 

May Your Wines 
Fall Bright!

 

BARREL TREATMENT

     Fall Bright, The Winemakers Shoppe

 

            Oak barrels are the traditional way of aging wine.  Barrels do require special treatment before they are used.   All barrels come with a bunghole and a travel bung on the side.  You need to prepare your barrel for wine.  Barrels should always be positioned horizontally on a cradle.  If allowed to rest on the floor or on end, they could spring the bottom stave.

            If you have not purchased a brand new barrel or are using one that you know has only had wine in it, you need to smell the barrel.  If it has a vinegar or moldy smell, do not use the barrel.  If the barrel has stored pickles, fish or any other substance other than wine, donít use the barrel.  The odors of these substances have been absorbed into the wood and there is no way to remove them.  

            Assuming your barrel has no off odors and is apparently sound, fill the barrel with cold water and keep it full for 48 hours.  Even a new barrel needs to be filled with water and soaked.  If it leaks, you might try hammering the hoops until they are tight against the staves and soak for another 24 hours.  If it still leaks, look for another barrel.  Once you have determined that your (used) barrel is OK to use, fill the barrel with a solution (read on) of Barrelkleen.  NEVER EVER USE CHLORINE IN YOUR BARREL.   Barrelkleen is a combination of sodium sesquicarbonate, soda ash and lye.  Mix one (1) pound of Barrelkleen per five (5) gallons of hot water.  A 30-gallon barrel will require 6 pounds of Barrelkleen and 30 gallons of water.  Leave this solution in the barrel for 24-48 hours.  This removes the excess tannins and allows the barrel to absorb water and swell so it wonít leak.  After 48 hours, drain the barrel and flush with water until the water runs clear.  Then mix one (1) ounce of citric acid with one gallon of warm water.  For a 30-gallon barrel you will need 3-5 gallons of this solution.  Close the barrel and roll it so the solution touches the entire interior.  This neutralizes any remaining alkali.  Drain and rinse out the barrel.  Now the barrel is ready for your wine.  If you are using a new barrel you may omit the Barrelkleen step, or if you are more comfortable with its use, you may cut down on the exposure time to 12-to 24 hours.  You must always neutralize the Barrelkleen solution.                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

  A barrel must never be left empty for more than 2 hours after it has been conditioned.

        You may wish to drill a spigot hole before filling with wine.  Different size spigots will require different size holes.  Size your spigot in a hole cut in paper or cardboard first.  Drill a hole in the head or end of the barrel near the rim.  Place a tapered cork in the hole.  Make sure your cork fits the hole chosen for your spigot.  A #14 cork fits a 1Ē hole.  When the cork gets wet, it will swell and keep the hole from leaking.  Hopefully you donít have a cat that will worry the cork until it comes out.  (We winemakers can tell some of the most incredible horror stories!)  When you are ready to transfer your wine from the barrel, cut the cork flush with the head and drive the spigot into the barrel with a rubber mallet.  You may omit the spigot hole and transfer with a racking rod and siphon or a small pump.

A small 5 gallon barrel will impart more than enough oak in 2 weeks or less.  Wine in small barrels must be checked frequently.

Finally, you never want to leave a barrel emptyKeeping it filled prevents the barrel from drying out, growing mold or going sour.  If you don't have more wine to fill it with, flush the barrel with water until it runs clear.  Fill the barrel with a solution of 1 tablespoon of metabisulfite and 2 teaspoons of citric acid for every 5 gallons of water.  Replace this solution every three months or at least replenish the chemicals and top up with water.